Having bought three 2nd hand Fireballs over the years, I have some idea of the pitfalls facing buyers .It is very easy to get carried away in a rush of enthusiasm and pay top dollar for the first boat that comes your way. Frequently, a hasty purchase leads to extra unplanned expense, frustration and disappointment. So, here are some ideas that might prevent your dream purchase from turning into a nightmare.
- Fireball hull shapes have changed significantly over the years and it is a simple fact that the more modern the hull shape the faster the boat. The preferred hull shape, at the moment, has wide bows and a "flat" slope on the forward section of the hull. The wide bows give extra buoyancy when the boat threatens to do a nosedive, allowing the bows to rise out of the water quicker. The fine slope on forward section of the hull allows the boat to get onto a plane quicker when the wind gusts.
In our fleet,at the moment, there are wide bows on boats from 14272 (Smokin’ Gun) upwards. [White Adder (Norbert/Frank) may also have wide bows.] There is a finely sloped front hull section on boats from 14044 (Storyteller-Peter Houlihan) upwards. But exceptions exist, so take no chances and do some research into the hull characteristics of the boat you are interested in .
These hull shape differences are easily spotted if you put a new hull beside an old hull and look at the bow width and also the slope of the forward section of the hull.
Some boat builders have good reputations for quality eg. Winder while other builders get mixed reviews. So get advice before buying an unusual make of boat.
- If you want to beat the best, you need the same equipment as the best! So, do some research into the type of gear used by the class champs. At the moment, the winning combination seems to be :Winder all-plastic hull, Pinnell and Bax or Rush sails, M7/Proctor mast .
Check the boat as much as possible .(However, in 1995, I took one look at Smokin’ Gun’s gleaming deck and blemish free hull and bought it on the spot!) Some useful checks are:
- Turn boat on it’s side (if mast is rigged) and test hull for soft spots. Just press your hand against the hull looking for give in the plywo od or the fibreglass. If the hull flexes then there is water damage to the hull which could be expensive to repair. Check the hull also for fine cracks, previous repairs and smoothness of the hull finish . All of these together will give a good idea if hull has been cared for or not .
- While boat is on it’s side , check also the centerboard . Pull board out of the c.b. case and visually inspect. A poorly maintained boat will have a c.b. with lumps missing out of the leading and trailing edges of the c.b. Water getting into such cracks and holes can cause significant damage to the board. Beware also newly painted centerboards , you really don’t know what has happened to such boards.
- Finally, check the condition of the slot gasket-a piece of fabric which prevents a jet of water gushing through the centerboard casing.
- Turn boat upright and check the topsides. Look inside all the inspection hatches for evidence of repairs to the hull and also to check that all struts and deck supports are intact . [Sometimes the deck supports can crack if the crew fall on the foredeck or aftdeck.]
- Check that all air-tanks are intact. Look for cracks where the tanks join the hull and also where front bulkhead joins the deck . Apply hand pressure at any cracks and if crack widens then you don’t have water-tight tanks.
- Look for dark stains under the varnish around deck fittings. Such stains indicate that the fitting was not properly sealed when installed. Such fittings easily pull out because the wood/fibreglass underneath has rotted/delaminated.
- Look at the quality of deck fittings. Are there ball-bearings in the main cleats? (good!) Are the jaws of the cleats worn badly? Do the boat control systems work effectively? A new cascade kicker system would cost about £70-£100 in blocks and pulleys, similarly a replacement spinneker up-haul system could easily cost £100. So check ,as much as possible that all systems work effectively.
- Check the mast for kinks. If boat is rigged then put your head against the Gooseneck and look up along the mainsail track on the mast . Kinks in the mast should be noticeable (do this without tension on the mast i.e. jib down).
- Check the mast carefully for cracks in the aluminium, especially where there are rivets in the mast or fittings attached. All masts "die" eventually but you don’t want to buy a mast on the verge of death!
- Check shrouds and trapeze wires for broken wire strands.
- Check all halyards for wear and tear. Check all of the halyard by pulling it through the mast to some extent.
- Check the sails for tears, particularly at the batten pockets. Also get advice on the state of the sails. A new suit of sails costs approx. £1200, so you will need advice on whether or not the sails are any good.
I am sure that there are many more useful hints that could be mentioned but the most important bit of advice must be to bring an experienced sailor along for on the spot advice and moral support!
Mick Creighton, 14719
